From the written evidence of secondary sources and maps on the maps.nls and Scotlandspeople websites
by Meryl Marshall
Background
In the years before the 18th Century the Highlands were regarded as a hostile backward country, travelling was difficult, there were few visitors and many journeys were made by boat. In 1793 George Brown reported that,
The most necessary and useful line of road betwixt East and West Sea through the four Northern Counties of Scotland […] is a line across the county of Ross from the town of Dingwall on the head of the Cromarty Firth, to Poolewe on the west coast by Contin, Strath Garve, Kanloch Laygart, Strath Brain and Caimsey to the junction of the river of Ew with the sea. Here the Lewis packet boat passes and it is the great line of communication to Inverness, Dingwall and […] that part of the coast which abounds with valuable fishing lochs. At a place called Auchnasheen a branch should break off and go westwards to Loch Carron and at Kenloch Ew another branch should turn off to Loch Torridon.
General Report H R & B 1803
In 1772, Pennant writes that Poolewe “is the station of a government packet that sails regularly from hence to Stornoway in Lewis […]This is a spot of much concourse; for here terminates the military road which crosses from the east to the west sea” (1998 p333). Over the years this route has seen many changes. Today the area around Gairloch and Poolewe is well known for its outstanding scenery and is frequented by a multitude of holiday visitors, some even choosing to spend their retirement here. This account explores the checkered history of the route.
Haldane writes that there are “authentic records of a regular post to Lewis in 1756” (Haldane 1971 p175) and Dixon has “the post runner came from Dingwall by Strath Braan and Glen Dochartie to the head of Loch Maree then along the east (north) side of the loch via Letterewe to Poolewe”, coming “to Poolewe on Wednesdays and Saturdays walking “through the Rock” ie Bull Rock” (Dixon 1886 p147-148).
In 1786 John Knox reports that he had sailed from Stornoway to Poolewe in a small unseaworthy vessel used for the transport of cattle (Haldane 1997 p107). From the early 18th century the export of cattle was important to the Highland economy. The beasts reared in the Outer Isles of Lewis and Harris were shipped from Stornoway to Poolewe before being “driven” south to the markets of Crieff and Falkirk. The New Statistical Account of 1845 for Stornoway records that near the town, “there is a square mile of moor enclosed for a cattle tryst where several thousand head are exposed for sale and at least 2,000 change hands in 2 days; from 20 to 30 drovers come from the Mainland and some from England”.
The First Road
Following the risings of 1715 and 1719 the Government undertook the construction of a network of roads to facilitate communications throughout the Highlands and suppress the Highland rebels. The project was supervised initially by General Wade and then until 1767 by Major William Caulfeild. The labour force was provided at first by the military and in later years, when the budget was reduced, by unskilled labourers (Haldane 1962 p8-9). The Dingwall/Poolewe road, built c1763-1768, was one of the later roads. The course of the road is marked on maps of 1793 and 1811 ( RHP11597, RHP11674 and RHP11675) and annotated “old road” (see Scotlandspeople website).
Today the line of the road can be traced for much of its route particularly at Grudie Bridge and Tollie in the West (see Historical Routes on the NOSAS website) and in the east on the north bank of the Blackwater River between Contin and Garve. The road was completed by 1768 and “kept in some sort of repair during the next 20 years but after that there is no reference to work on it” (Haldane 1962 p10).
The fine bridge crossing the Blackwater River at Little Garve may have been built at this time. Its design, similar to the “Wade” bridges, seems to suggest that it was built in the 18th century.
The second half of the 18th century saw a succession of visitors to the Highlands; they gave the impression that in general the military roads were uncared for and falling into ruin. In 1785, General Mackay (Commander of the Military force in Scotland) wrote that “no regular system seems to have been laid down in carrying on this business […] These roads have in many places been very ill constructed and are in bad repair”. Haldane says that “General Mackay’s reports were detailed and comprehensive and many of his recommendations for improving the system of maintenance and controlling the cost were adopted” (Haldane 1962 p9-10).
In 1786 John Knox, touring the Highlands on behalf of the British Fisheries Society, said “Of the quality of such roads as exist [in Ross-shire] it is hardly agreed upon by the travellers which is the line of the road, everyone making a line for himself. Even sheep follow better routes, understand levels better and select better gradients” (Haldane 1962 p12). Haldane reports “in a paper which Sir Kenneth Mackenzie read to the Inverness Scientific Society in 1899 he records that in the last years of 18th Century Lady Seaforth on her way to Lewis could only get as far as Loch Achanault 15 miles from Contin before her coach became a complete wreck” (Haldane 1962 p10).
These were early days for the road builders; they had little experience of constructing roads through difficult terrain which also had to be able to cope with Highland weather. The roads needed more funding and more attention given to their construction and maintenance.
“Improvement”
For all the labour and all the money which had gone into this work, communications remained sadly deficient […] the Highlands were at peace, the clan rivalry […]and the turbulence of the people had been subdued […] but the civilisation and industry of these remote mountain districts were at least 50 years behind the Lowlands of Scotland and England
Haldane 1962 p29
The 18th century was a time of change. Throughout Scotland (and England) a period of “Improvement”, when landowners sought to make their land give them a better financial return, was underway. The Government began to encourage exploitation of the natural resources of the Highlands by supporting endeavours such as the kelp industry, the manufacture of linen and fishing. In 1787 the British Fisheries Society was established – three locations were chosen for development, Tobermory on Mull, Pultneytown (Wick) and Ullapool on the West Coast. Ullapool was chosen in preference to Loch Ewe (Poolewe) because it had more regular visits from the herring and because the land connection to Dingwall was shorter (Dunlop 1978 p35).
A good road connection was an important part of “Improvement”, particularly where a catch of fish needed to be taken to market quickly. A plan of intended road from Dingwall to Ullapool (RHP11593) was drawn up by George Brown in 1790. This road was completed in 1797 by Kenneth Mackenzie of Torridon at a cost of £4,582, original estimate £8,000 (Haldane 1962 p12-13). The road was short lived; the poor quality of the work became clear and it quickly fell into disrepair. It was replaced in 1815 by Telford’s road (H R & B) which followed the river from Aultguish to Garve rather than traversing the more direct hill route (see RHP11662 – the 1790 road is marked as “old road”)
Later “Telford” Roads in Ross-shire
In 1803 an Act of Parliament brought into being the “Commission for Roads and Bridges in the Highlands” (H R & B) and the engineer Thomas Telford, John Rickman and James Hope were appointed Commissioners. They decided that the cost of new roads should be shared equally between the Government and local interests and in 1803 the Government made provision for a grant of £20,000 (Haldane 1962 p44-45). There was plenty of interest in applying for the funding but when it came to Ross-shire Rickman described the efforts as “pitiful” (Haldane 1962 p51). In 1805 he wrote, “in Ross-shire troubles were seldom far to seek […]the affairs of Ross-shire will perplex you not a little”. Rickman wrote of Sir George Mackenzie that he was “a man of some genius but not of that kind that facilitates business”. Rickman, Telford and Hope all at one time or another had crossed swords with Sir George Mackenzie of Coul, Convener of the County (Haldane 1962 p59).
Much later Robert Somers attended a County Meeting in Dingwall in 1846. With regard to the Gairloch and Ullapool parishes, he wrote that,
The question of the roads was broached […] these districts are in a wretched condition […] this subject has for some time occupied the attention of the Relief Board. The cost was estimated at £5,000, of this sum the Board agreed to pay 1/3, proprietors 1/3 and the other 1/3 to be levied upon general property of the county […] the Easter Ross gentlemenwere of the negative view and were declared victorious by 4 votes […] all part […] of the petty feud between Easter and Wester Ross.
Somers R 1977 p47 to 52
By 1803, the strategic and economic situation of Poolewe had changed significantly. With the Napoleonic wars in progress there was still a demand for beef to feed the soldiers and some cattle continued to be landed at Poolewe, but the development of Ullapool and its connecting road provided an alternative route to the east and an upgrade of the Poolewe road did not have the same imperative. Roads to other parts of the West Coast were being considered too, particularly the Achnasheen to Loch Carron route which would eventually link to the Isle of Skye. It was this route which was chosen for funding. Poolewe was to wait a long time before getting its new road.
In the following chapters the progress of the Dingwall to Poolewe road will be explored in 3 sections; the Contin section (Dingwall to Contin) and the Auchnasheen section (Contin to Auchnasheen), both part of the Dingwall/Loch Carron road, with the third section being the Achnasheen/Poolewe branch road.
The Dingwall/Loch Carron Road
Haldane writes that, “from an early stage a road from Dingwall by Achnasheen to Loch Carron had been in contemplation (Haldane 1962 p98)”. The road became a reality c1807 and the opportunity to extend it to Strome Ferry and Kyle of Lochalsh was presented. The whole length was divided into 5 sections – the Contin Division, Auchnasheen Division, Luip Division, Jeantown Division and the Loch Alsh Division. The first two divisions only are considered here (adverts and letters concerning the contracts for the sections are on the Newspaper website, www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk).
Contin Division
The 6th Report of the H R & B (1813) tells us “From Contin […] to Dingwall is about 8 miles in length; but as the old road [of 1768] is very passable we shall certainly not attend to its Improvement until all the remoter parts of the Loch Carron road are nearly finished”. But in 1815, “from a difference of opinion arose a delay of some years duration” (7th report H R & B 1815); the heritors (landowners who were now making a contribution to the cost) claimed “In May 1813… a gravelled road well-made is preferable to one metalled” and “roads made over moss are the most agreeable and durable of any” (9th report H R & B 1821). The Commissioners preferred “a road on higher ground to avoid the Morass near Dingwall”. Regarding he road, the 9th Report states that “in October 1817 it was finished in the best manner we were able to enforce. Since that time the road near Dingwall has continued to be soft and muddy and an unusual quantity of material for building having been carried from Dingwall Harbour to Coull last year” (H R & B 9th Report 1821). This last perhaps being a reference to the building of Coul House.
Auchnasheen Division
Construction of the Contin to Achnasheen section does not appear to have started until 1807. From Contin westward to Garve, a new line which ran along the south bank of the river was chosen. This necessitated the building of a new bridge over the Blackwater River at Contin. The 6th report of the Commissioners 1813 has that, “in the beginning of the year 1811 a misfortune happened where a bridge then recently built by the contractor was swept away by an unusual torrent […] the enlarged bridge is to be built under a separate contract and at our joint expense” (6th report H R & B 1813). The bridge was finished in 1817 “in the proper manner”. Of the road construction, Haldane tells us “progress was slow and plagued by bankruptcies, disagreements, frustrations and weariness both with the procurement of funds and with the contractors. Even in 1812 “a horse could get no further than Contin” (Haldane 1962 p99); “the contract for making the Auchnasheen Division […] has been unfortunate and injurious to all parties concerned in it” (9th report H R & B 1821).
Not until 1819, 10 years after its commencement, was Rickman able to report the completion of the road from Auchnasheen to Strome Ferry” (Haldane 1962 p99). Regarding MacLeod of MacLeod in 1846, it was reported that,
This gentleman runs a handsome stage-coach three times a week from Inverness to the gates of his own castle at Dunvegan […]this long journey of 144 miles is accomplished in little more than 20 hours. Taking a seat at Dingwall in this admirable conveyance I was carried with unexpected rapidity […]our route lay through Strathpeffer, Strathgarve and Strathbran remarkable for nothing but the bleakness of their scenery and scantiness of their population.
Somers 1977 p53
The Achnasheen/Poolewe Branch Road
By 1813 the Poolewe road was being considered as a branch of the Loch Carron/Skye road; “at the junction of the Auchnasheen section of the Loch Carron road, a proposed branch road turns off to Loch Maree” (6th R H & B 1813). In 1811 Hope had written to Sir Hector Mackenzie of Gairloch as to a survey of the road and by April this survey had been ordered (RHP11674 Plan of proposed road from the Loch Carron road to Loch Maree dated 1811, also RHP11675 Plan of a proposed road between Achnasheen and Loch Maree dated 1811). The road was to be on a narrow scale but sufficient to take wheel-carriages. The Commissioners estimated the cost of a 15 foot road at £4,385 and in the winter of 1812 it was reported that the local contributions had been paid into the Bank of Scotland (Haldane 1962 p99). A contribution from the Commissioners had also been paid into the bank; “a moiety of the estimate has lately been paid into the Bank of Scotland” (6th R H & B 1813).
In 1815 an advert appears stating “road contractors wanted […]for completing the road leading from Auchnasheen to the Bridge of Grudie (Loch Maree) […] will meet with every encouragement on application” (Newspaper Archive). Three offers for the contract were received and each one of these was for a sum in the region of £7000. Haldane continues, “It is uncertain […] whether the Commissioners or the local contributors drew back at this stage […] Perhaps both shrank from the rising cost. In the late Spring of 1816 the contributions of the proprietors were repaid […]the plans were abandoned” (Haldane 1962 p99-100).
A line of road has been surveyed branching off towards the West sea at Auchnasheen […] we have little doubt but that finally a road will be opened in this direction but under what form and to what extent is become uncertain from the excessive expense threatened by the first eleven miles to the head of Loch Maree the lowest offer for making which is £7000. We have directed an investigation to be made whether a less perfect road or merely a line of bridges extending to Poolewe may not be more advisable in this remote part of the country.
7th report for H R & B 1815
In 1817 another advert appears; “wanted by the Parliamentary Commissioners […] contractors for completing that line of the road extending from Bridge of Grudie to the Farmhouse of Auchnasheen […] the extent of the road to be contracted for is 91/2 miles with 24 bridges”. No further references to this were found and it is presumed that it was not followed through.
It was to be another 30 years before Poolewe acquired its new road. A map Roads, Bridges and Harbours, made or improved by the Commissioners, 1803-28 has the “Loch Carron Road” from Dingwall to Skye annotated “made and maintained”, but there is no road along Loch Maree to Poolewe or Gairloch (Haldane 1962 – insert at back of book). Mr Stewart Mackenzie in 1827 wrote that he had failed to attend a Circuit Court in Inverness owing to the want of a road from Poolewe to Achnasheen (Haldane 1971 p178) and in 1837, in his New Statistical Account, the Rev James Russell was indignant that “when other parishes received large grants for conducting public roads through their whole length, this parish […] was completely neglected.
It was not until 1847 that a road along the south side of Loch Maree was built. It needed the potato famine of 1846, the poverty of the local people and the driving force of the Dowager Lady Mackenzie of Gairloch to initiate it. Half the cost was provided by the Destitution Committee, half was collected by Lady Mackenzie and the work was done by the local crofting tenants. This road and several others in the area became known as “Destitution roads”.
Bibliography
Dixon JH – Gairloch and Guide to Loch Maree – 1886
Dunlop Jean 1978 – The British Fisheries Society 1786-1893
Haldane ARB – Drove Roads of Scotland, 1997
Haldane ARB – New Ways through the Glens”, 1962
Haldane ARB – Three centuries of Scottish Posts, 1971
Highland Roads and Bridges – Reports from Commissioners 1803 – 1821 (viewed in Highland Archive, Inverness)
Hogg James – A Tour of the Highlands in 1803 (1986)
Knox John – Tour through the Highlands of Scotland of 1786.
Pennant Thomas – A Tour in Scotland and Voyage to the Hebrides, 1772 (1998)
Somers R – Letters from the Highlands, after the great potato famine of 1846 (1977)
Websites
www.britishnewspaperarchive.co.uk
www.nosas.co.uk/historicalroutes.asp
maps.nls.uk – National Library Scotland
| William Roy | 1747-1752 | Shows ?”road” from Achanalt to Kinlochewe and then along N side of Loch M to Poolewe, no road on S side |
| Ainslie | 1789 | Has “roads” along both sides Loch Maree |
| Arrowsmith | 1807 | Has roads along both side Loch M with link to Gerloch |
| John Thomson and John Craig | 1826 | Has road all the way Dingwall to Poolewe with road on N side Glen Docherty and on S side of Loch M splitting at Slattadale. |
| OS 6” survey | 1840-1880 | Shows Tollie “path”,with Grudie Bridge and road along S side of Loch M. Road on N side Glen Docherty |
| OS 6” survey | 1888-1913 | Ditto |
www.scotlandspeople.gov.uk/maps-and-plans Scotlandspeople website (search of NRAS catalogue for refs to early roads Contin, Urray and Fodderty Parishes)
| Title | Date | Comments on surveys Scotlandspeople website | |
| RHP11593 | Plan of intended road from Dingwall to Ullapool | 1790 | The stretch from Garve to Ullapool only is available on website. No bridge over the Blackwater at Little Garve but “road to Achnasheen and Poolewe” marked |
| RHP11597 | Plan of intended road from Lochcarron to Achnasheen and thence to Dingwall, Ross and Cromarty | 1793 | Road marked only from Loch Luichart to Dingwall. Stretch between Dingwall and Contin had 2 options. Also has Little Garve bridge and start of “road to Ullapool” |
| RHP11599 | Plan of intended road from Poolewe to Achnasheen | 1793 | No image |
| RHP11636 | Plan of the Lochcarron road from Kyleakin (Kyle- Aggin) to Achnasheen. | 1806 | No result |
| RHP11637 | Plan of the Lochcarron Road continued from Achnasheen to the village of Contin. | 1806 | No result |
| RHP11662 | Plan of proposed road from Strathgarve to Ullapool, Ross and Cromarty | 1815 | Road follows river from Aultguish to Garve and has “old road”(of 1790) taking the hill route from Aultguish |
| RHP11674 | Plan of proposed road from the Loch Carron Road to Loch Maree. | 1811 | Has an “old road” (?of 1793) for the whole length |
| RHP11675 | Plan of proposed road between Achnasheen and Loch Maree, Ross and Cromarty | 1811 | Ditto |
| RHP94164 | Plan and elevation of bridge over the Blackwater near Contin, built for the Commissioners for Highland Roads and Bridges, (see GD253/169/6-7 for involvement of Thomas Telford, contractor) | 1812 | This is the bridge at Contin (not Garve!) |
NOSAS Archaeology Blog 
Fascinating read. Would also recommend Osgood MacKenzies 100 years in the Highlands – Family history of the founder of Inverewe gardens and the first part of the book covers the family travelling cross country to Poolewe and has a few insights and anecdotes on the state of the roads/lack of them.
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